Maize (corn) has sustained humans for thousands of years, possibly as far back as 8,700 years ago.
Beloved by the Mayas, the Incas, the Zapotec and many other Mesoamerican cultures in what is today Mexico, this versatile crop can be eaten raw, ground into meal or flour, fermented into an alcoholic beverage or enjoyed numerous other ways.
Historically, corn not only played an important culinary role, but also a spiritual one. Many Mesoamerican cultures had maize gods or goddesses, and some—like the Mayas—believed the first humans were created from the yellow and white kernels.
Now, a new Boulder restaurant is paying homage to this humble ingredient and the vital role it’s played throughout Mexico’s history.
Last month, Cozobi Fonda Fina opened on Walnut Street in the former Masas & Agaves space across from the St Julien Hotel & Spa. It’s the latest venture from chef Johnny Curiel, who opened Alma Fonda Fina in Denver’s LoHi neighborhood in December with his wife, Kasie.
“Without corn, there is no country,” says Curiel, adding that the restaurant showcases the “true complexity of Mexican food while emphasizing our commitment to authentic ingredients and time-honored traditions.”
Though his first restaurant opened just nine months ago, Curiel has already amassed an impressive following of dedicated fans. On a recent evening at the six-seat chef’s counter inside Cozobi Fonda Fina, I was surrounded on both sides by diners from Denver who’d made the drive up U.S. 36 to experience their favorite chef’s new Boulder eatery.
The story
For Curiel, Cozobi Fonda Fina is a homecoming of sorts. Growing up in a family of chefs in Guadalajara, Mexico, and Breckenridge, Curiel was drawn to restaurants from a young age: He began his culinary career as a teenager washing dishes at his father’s restaurant.
After he turned 18, he enrolled in a culinary school that took him all over Mexico, from bustling restaurants and street food stands to abuelas’ home kitchens. He later moved to Boulder to attend Escoffier Culinary School.
Curiel went on to work in chef Richard Sandoval’s restaurants around the United States and Mexico, including Washington D.C., New York, Los Angeles, Guadalajara, Oaxaca and Aspen.
In Denver, he worked under chef Troy Guard at popular eateries like Guard + Grace, Los Chingones and Mr. Tuna. Eventually, he landed at Centro Mexican Kitchen in Boulder, where he served as executive chef.
Late last year, he opened Alma Fonda Fina—his first concept as a restaurateur. When the space on Walnut Street became available just a few months later, Curiel jumped at the chance to open a second solo concept.
“It’s incredible to be back in Boulder,” he says of opening Cozobi Fonda Fina. “After my transformative time working at Centro Mexican Kitchen in 2017, I knew I wanted to find my way back. I’ve been in love with Boulder since I first lived here. It wasn’t just about the scenery and community, but the chance to cook my own food as a young Mexican chef. The timing and circumstances were fate, and I couldn’t have seized this opportunity without the encouragement of our incredible team at Alma Fonda Fina.”
The food and drinks
Corn is the star of the show at Cozobi Fonda Fina, which is named after Cozobi, the Zapotec god of corn. (“Fonda” is a humble neighborhood spot, while “fina” means fine—a nod to the restaurant’s casual-yet-elegant food and environment.)
Led by chef de cuisine Jordan Tehrani, the small-but-mighty Cozobi team has mastered the art of nixtamalization. This is a traditional method of producing masa, or soft dough that can be transformed into tortillas, tamales, flautas, tostadas and other foods.
These types of dishes—from the quesadilla de rajas con crema to the chilaquiles de birria—are outstanding at Cozobi. But, here, corn goes way beyond these expected uses: It also plays a starring role in everything from the elote Caesar salad to the cocktails.
Take the sweet corn margarita, for instance. First, chefs make corn stock by stewing kernels in water with onions, peppercorns and other ingredients (similar to a savory stock made from vegetables, chicken or beef). Then, they transform the stock into homemade corn syrup by mixing it with sugar.
When it comes time to mix up the drink, bartenders combine this house-made corn syrup with smoky Vago Elote mezcal, Nixta corn liquor and lemon juice. This summer-in-a-glass drink is garnished with charred chunks of sweet corn. The rim is dipped in house-made tortilla salt, made by dehydrating and blitzing tortillas into a powder.
Because of the emphasis on corn, the entire menu is gluten-free—and the team gladly accommodates allergies and dietary restrictions. Curiel himself suffers from 26 different food allergies, so he’s more than understanding of the plight some diners face when they eat out.
The space
Denver-based interior designer Agatha Strompolos, who owns Agatha Jane Interior Design, used dark wood tones and deep green hues to create an immersive experience at the 71-seat Cozobi Fonda Fina.
Drawing inspiration from Mexico and Boulder, she incorporated “found” objects into the design, like plateware and molcajetes (stone tools similar to a mortar and pestle). Dining sets created by Boulder makers, including Element Knife and O’baware ceramics, help root the restaurant in place.
