“Bärlauch” is the German word for ramp, the delicious garlicky wild leek that gardeners and chefs look forward to every spring. Now, this tasty green vegetable is also the inspiration behind BearLeek, Denver’s hottest new restaurant.
The eatery is the brainchild of chef Harrison Porter, along with co-owners Rema Maaliki, the chef de cuisine, and Carlos Hugo Meza, the beverage director. Located at 2611 Walnut Street in Denver’s River North Arts District (RiNo), the name symbolizes renewal, growth and new beginnings.
Porter has worked in kitchens all over the world, learning from a variety of mentors and perfecting his craft in the kitchen. He’s channeling all of those international influences into the menu at BearLeek, which opened earlier this summer.
“BearLeek is a reflection of the people, places, and kitchens that have influenced me,” he says. “It’s the culmination of my time cooking in New York City, Melbourne and Peru—each place leaving its mark on how I approach flavor, technique, sourcing, and hospitality. Alongside Maaliki, who proudly draws from her Palestinian and Lebanese roots, we’re excited to create a space where cultures come together—a place where we cook with curiosity, learn from each other, and have a lot of fun doing it.”
Highlights of the menu include the koji fried chicken, inspired by one of Porter’s stints in Melbourne. He uses a koji brine to add even more umami-rich depth to the chicken, along with green Sichuan orange beurre blanc, fennel and bonito nori salt for added complexity. The tuna crudo, meanwhile, has been reimagined through the lens of Maaliki’s Middle Eastern roots. It features rich, tangy labneh, bright tuna, Meyer lemon mint vinaigrette, sesame ponzu and sweet peas.
And, as the name suggests, there are a few subtle nods to bears throughout the menu. Start off with the house-made brioche rolls and bear-shaped charred leek butter, and be sure to save room for dessert—a “BearPop,” a teddy bear-shaped vanilla and passionfruit sweet cream semifreddo with black garlic salsa macha.
“We want the menu to echo something familiar—just enough to draw you in—but then surprise you,” says Maaliki. “It’s about recognition with a twist, comfort seen through a more curious lens. We approach each dish with intention, but never without a sense of play. Creativity is our foundation, and the more deliberately we build on it, the more room we find to do things entirely our own way.”
The bar menu includes sustainable, high-technique cocktails made with local, seasonal ingredients, as well as a focused yet eclectic wine list available by the glass and by the bottle. It’s been developed to complement the dishes on the menu. The El Oso, for instance, is a passionfruit mezcal margarita, while the Pretty Fly For A Chai Guy is a refreshing whiskey cocktail with local chai tea, Colorado honey, and lemon. For those looking for a zero-proof option, there’s the Fresa Seco, a strawberry aperol spritz using non-alcoholic “amaro” and sparkling wine.
“We’re in lockstep with the kitchen—just as the food evolves with the seasons, so does our cocktail menu,” says Meza.
The restaurant was designed in partnership with Kevin Nguyen of Regular Architecture. When they step into the dining room, diners will find a mix of moody tones and rich textures, including a mural that honors the surrounding arts community. Porter also worked with local photographer Jeff Fierberg to create “Smoke Breaks,” an intimate art series that captures quiet corners of the city where Porter has paused between shifts.
The center of activity in the space is a 14-seat community table where guests can share meals and make new friends. There’s also an eight-seat chef’s counter for a front-row seat to the action.
