Colorado may not be as well-known for its barbecue traditions as places like Memphis and Kansas City. But a pair of Denver chefs hope to change that with Riot BBQ, a novel eatery that’s now open on South Broadway.
Chef Manny Barella and pitmaster Patrick Klaiber are teaming up to bring something totally new and different to Denver’s dining scene. Riot BBQ is a mash-up of two distinct culinary legacies: the smoky asado traditions of northern Mexico’s smoky asado traditions and the classic barbecue techniques of the American South.
Barella grew up in Monterrey, Mexico, a region where fire-cooked meats and tending the grill are a big part of the culture. He worked at barbecue pits across Georgia and Texas and is now returning to Denver to celebrate the food of his childhood.
“In Monterrey, barbecue isn’t a trend—it’s a tradition passed down through generations,” says Barella. “It’s how we come together on Sundays, how we celebrate milestones, and how we stay connected to our roots. Every fire tells a story. Riot BBQ is my way of honoring those stories while telling my own.”
Klaiber, meanwhile, started smoking meat when he was just 16. The self-taught pitmaster rose through the ranks at the now-shuttered AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q, which earned a Bib Gourmand designation from the Michelin Guide in 2023.
Riot BBQ is located at 2180 South Delaware St., the site formerly occupied by AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q, which shut down in March.
“Barbecue is honest,” says Klaiber. “It’s about fire, patience and integrity. You don’t rush it—you honor it. The way I cook now is the same way I started: show up early, stay late and let time and technique speak for itself.”
Together, Barella and Klaiber have dreamed up a menu that seamlessly combines their two specialties, offering something totally different from Tex-Mex or traditional Southern fare. Their beef brisket, for example, combines Klaiber’s recipe with Barella’s spice rub, while their pulled pork is infused with ancho, guajillo and morita peppers and a vinegar-based sauce. And with the smoked pork ribs al pastor, the duo is bringing the smokey flavors of barbecue to the traditional chilies, achiote paste and spices.
Other delicious dishes include brisket tacos, featuring chopped brisket served with charred pico de gallo and avocado crema on bison tallow tortillas from Raquelitas Tortillas; matcha slaw, served with pepitas, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds and toasted ancho, guajillo and morita chiles; and banana pudding, with banana, whipped cream and vanilla wafers.
For drinks, Riot BBQ offers a selection of draft cocktails behind the counter and self-serve beer taps operating on the honor system.
The eatery has a relaxed counter-service model, with an expansive outdoor patio and a warm, approachable interior area. Two private dining spaces are also available for events.
Riot BBQ’s name is a nod to Denver’s storied past. In January 1898, the National Stock Growers’ convention was coming to a close at the Union Pacific stockyard, according to the Denver Public Library. To celebrate, chefs prepared an outdoor feast featuring slow-cooked buffalo and beef, bear meat spiced with South American bay leaves, sugar-cured venison with herbs, mutton with mint sauce and possum with sweet potatoes.
However, the barbecue took a turn when 30,000 people showed up and began mobbing the food tables. Destruction and plundering ensued, with people stealing everything from knives and forks to beer glasses and tin cups. One man died in a fistfight in the saloon of the stockyards’ hotel.
Riot BBQ is open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m—though the restaurant might sell out before the posted closing time.
